Udaipur Watermarked by whimsy and splendour, the Venice of the East holds stage as one of India’s truly seductive cities. Udaipur is an international destination unto itself, with splendid Lake Pichola lapping against shimmering white buildings, and the Aravalli hills closing in to savour the view.The centrepiece of the city is the floating Lake Palace – brash enough for a Bond film (parts of Octopussy were filmed here), yet refined enough for his majesty’s pleasure. Packed with princeliness and passion, Udaipur is raw Rajput dreaming, with palaces, havelis and temples at every turn. Formerly known as Mewar, Udaipur was founded in 1559 when Maharaja Udai Singh II took flight from the final sacking of Chittor by the Mughal emperor Akbar. As Udai Singh and his contemporaries resisted Muslim might, the city grew a reputation for patriotic fervour and an aching love of independence. The old city, bounded by the remains of a city wall, is on the east side of Lake Pichola. The train station and bus stand are both just outside the city wall to the southeast. Like most Indian cities, Udaipur has an urban sprawl that goes beyond the city’s original boundaries. Other Useful Information
ShoppingUdaipur has masses of little shops selling jumbles of things ranging from cloth lanterns to antique jewellery.The town is known for its local crafts, particularly its miniature paintings in the Rajput-Mughal style; shops line Lake Palace Road and around Jagdish Temple, but finding an authentic artist takes a collector's eye. Silver jewellery pitched at Western tastes, and leather-bound books and handmade paper (from Jaipur) are other popular buys in this area. Textile shops also line Lake Palace Road, and shops along here also sell beautiful, brightly painted, small wooden Hindu gods. Interesting, less-tourist-focused bazaars spread out from the clock tower, east of Ganjaur Ghat, and buzz loudest in the evening. Bara Bazaar sells silver and gold, as well as saris and fabrics. Traditional shoes are sold on Mochiwada, more silver on Battiyanni Chohtta, and Mandi Market is the centre for spices. Rajasthali Chetak Circle (hrs 10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat); near Jagdish Temple (hrs 10am-6.30pm) The government fixed-price emporium is worth dropping into to gauge handicraft prices. SightsLake PicholaPlacid Lake Pichola was enlarged by Maharaja Udai Singh II after the city was founded – he flooded nearby Pichola village by building a masonry dam, known as the Badipol. The lake is now 4km long and 3km wide, but it remains shallow and dries up in severe droughts. The City Palace decorates the east bank of the lake. North of the palace you can wander along the lakeshore, where there are some interesting bathing and dhobi (clothes-washing) ghats. Jagniwas Island Jagniwas, the Lake Palace Hotel island, is about 1.5 hectares in size, completely covered by the palace built by Maharaja Jagat Singh II in 1754. Formerly the royal summer palace, today it is the ultimate in luxury hotels, with shady courtyards, lotus ponds and a pool shaded by a mango tree. Nonguests can only come over for lunch or dinner; hotel launches cross to the island from the City Palace jetty. The Lake Palace, along with the Shiv Niwas Palace and Monsoon Palace, was used in the James Bond movie Octopussy. Behind Jagniwas is a much smaller island called Arsi Vilas, used as a helipad. Jagmandir Island The palace on Jagmandir Island was built by Maharaja Karan Singh in 1620, and added to by Maharaja Jagat Singh (1628–52). It is said that the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan derived some of his inspiration for the Taj Mahal from this palace after staying here in 1623–24 while leading a revolt against his father, Jehangir. Europeans were sheltered here by Maharaja Swarup Singh during the uprising of 1857. Flanked by a row of enormous stone elephants, the island has an impressive chhatri carved from grey-blue stone, and fantastic views across the lake to the city and its golden palace. City Palace & Museums The imposing City Palace (admission Rs 25; Hrs 7am-8pm), surmounted by balconies, towers and cupolas, and towering over the lake, is Rajasthan’s largest palace, with a façade 244m long and 30.4m high. A conglomeration of buildings created by various maharajas, it still manages to retain a surprising uniformity of design. Construction was started by Maharaja Udai Singh II, the city’s founder. There are fine views over the lake and the city from the upper terraces. The palace is entered from the northern end through the Baripol (built in 1600) and the three-arched Tripolia Gate (1725). To the left, seven arches commemorate the seven times maharajas were weighed here and their weight in gold or silver distributed to the lucky locals. The City Palace museum (adult/child Rs 50/30, camera/video Rs 200/200; hrs 9.30am-4.30pm) includes the Mor Chowk, with its lavish mosaics of peacocks, the favourite Rajasthani bird. The Manak (Ruby) Mahal has glass and mirrorwork, while Krishna Vilas has a remarkable collection of miniatures (no photography allowed). In the Bari Mahal there is a pleasant centralgarden. The Moti Mahal has beautiful mirrorwork and the Chini Mahal is covered in ornamental tiles. More wall paintings can be seen in the Zenana Mahal. There’s a large tiger-catching cage near the Zenana Mahal entrance. Enter the museum from the north side (up the hill from the Jagdish Temple), otherwise there’s an extra Rs 25 visitor fee. A guide (Rs 100 for up to five people) is worthwhile. Jagdish Temple Only 150m north of the City Palace entrance, this fantastically carved Indo-Aryan temple (hrs 5am-2pm & 4-10.30pm) was built by Maharaja Jagat Singh in 1651. It enshrines a black stone image of Vishnu as Jagannath, Lord of the Universe. A brass image of Garuda is in a shrine in front of the temple. Bagore-Ki-Haveli This gracious 18th-century haveli (admission Rs 25; hrs 10am-7pm), on the water’s edge in the Gangaur Ghat area, was built by a former prime minister and has been carefully restored. There are 138 rooms set around courtyards. Some have been arranged to evoke when the house was inhabited, others have cultural displays, including the world’s (rather saggy) biggest turban! The haveli also houses an interesting art gallery, with contemporary and folk art, and world-famous monuments lovingly carved out of polystyrene. The upper courtyard makes an atmospheric setting for fabulous Rajasthani dance performances at 7pm. Fateh Sagar North of Lake Pichola, this lake – which dries up if the monsoon has been poor – is ringed by hills and is a hang-out for love-struck locals. It was originally built in 1678 by Maharaja Jai Singh but, after heavy rains destroyed the dam, it was reconstructed by Maharaja Fateh Singh. At its centre is Nehru Park, agarden island. An autorickshaw from the old city costs Rs 30 (one way). Bhartiya Lok Kala Museum This small, private museum (Indian/foreigner Rs 15/25, camera/video Rs 20/50; hrs 9am-5.30pm) shows dolls, masks, tribal jewellery, musical instruments, paintings and puppets. Saheliyon-Ki-Bari In the north of the city is the Saheliyon-ki-Bari (Garden of the Maids of Honour; admission Rs 5; hrs 8am-7pm) is. This small, quaint ornamentalgarden was laid out for 48 women attendants who came as part of a princess’s dowry, and has fountains (water shortages permitting), kiosks, marble elephants and a delightful lotus pool. Shilpgram Shilpgram (Indian/foreigner Rs 15/25, camera/video Rs 10/50; hrs 11am-7pm) is a crafts village 3km west of town that hosts the fantastic Shilpgram festival each December – check with the Tourist Reception Centre or at Bagore-ki-Haveli (opposite) for details. The rest of the year sees excellent demonstrations by traditional performers and artisans from Rajasthan, Gujarat, Goa and Maharashtra, but it can feel somewhat staged. Ahar About 2km east of Udaipur are over 250 restored cenotaphs of the maharajas of Mewar; it’s a spectacular city of snowy domes built over a period of 350 years. Nearby you can visit the patchy remains of the Sisodias’ ancient capital, and a museum (admission Rs 3; hrs 10am-5pm) housing accompanying artefacts, some over 5000 years old. Sajjan Garh (Monsoon Palace) Perched on the top of a distant mountain range like a fairy-tale castle, this neglected late-19th-century palace was constructed by Maharaja Sajjan Singh. Originally an astronomical centre, it later became a monsoon palace and hunting lodge. Now government-owned, it’s open to the public after lengthy closure, but there is not much to see inside. Come for the breathtaking sunset views. Other sights The maharajas’ Vintage & Classic Car Collection (Garden Hotel; admission Rs 100; hrs 9-11am & 2-6pm) is fascinating, with 22 splendid vehicles including a 1938 Cadillac complete with a system for purdah (custom among some Muslims and Hindus of keeping women secluded) to the beautiful 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom used in Octopussy. The maharaja’s ‘sun-smart’ car is also housed here. Sunset Point (admission Rs 5) is a lovely sunset spot. There’s a musical fountain here (drought permitting), which plays each evening. Almost 5km beyond Shilpgram is Badi ka Talab (Tiger Lake), a mammoth artificial lake flanked by hills. It’s usually full, and makes a pleasant picnic spot. Crocodiles lurk in parts of the lake, so swimmers beware! |
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