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Tirupati
 The ‘holy hill’ of Tirumala is one of the most important pilgrimage centres in India – and indeed the world: it’s said that Venkateshwara Temple eclipses Jerusalem, Rome and Mecca for sheer numbers of pilgrims.
There are never fewer than 50,00 pilgrims here at any one time – in a single day, the total often reaches 100,000 – and darshan (deity viewing) runs around the clock. Temple staff alone number 18,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams administers the crowds. It also runs choultries (guesthouses) for pilgrims in Tirumala and Tirupathi, the service town at the bottom of the hill.
Tirumala is an engrossing place, but receives few non-Hindu visitors. The crowds can certainly be overwhelming, but Tirumala somehow has a sense of serenity and ease about it and is worth a visit, even if you’re not a pilgrim.
Venkateshwara Temple
Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venka-teshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. Among the many powers attributed to him is the granting of any wish made before the idol at Tirumala. Many pilgrims also donate their hair to the deity, an act symbolic of renouncing the ego, so hundreds of barbers attend to devotees, and Tirumala and Tirupathi are filled with bald men, women and children.
The hill itself and the surrounding area have religious significance, and the temple’s history may date back 2000 years. The main temple is a beautiful and atmospheric place, bathed in soft light and flower garlands. As you approach the inner sanctum, the passageway grows dark and begins to smell of incense and resonate with chanting. Then, finally, there’s Venkateshwara, sitting gloriously on his throne and inspiring bliss and love among his visitors. You’ll have a moment to make a wish and then you’ll be out again.
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