Srinagar
 Srinagar, the summer capital of
the state of Jammu & Kashmir, stands on Dal Lake and the picturesque Jhelum River, overlooked by the green wooded slopes of the Pir Panjal range. The Aryan features of the Kashmiris and their penchant for kahwa (green tea with
cardamom) gives the city with a distinctly Central Asian flavour. Indeed, heading south from Srinagar is often referred to as ‘returning to India’.
Away from the traffic and pollution of the city centre, the tranquil waters of Dal Lake are a welcome distraction and it’s easy to see why everyone from the Mughals to the Raj once flocked here. Most people opt to stay on a houseboat, where getting from A to B involves little more than the splash of canoe paddles on the water.
Other Useful Information
- Orientation
- Shopping
- Sights
Orientation
The old city of Srinagar sits in the lee of Hari Parbat Hill. Here you’ll find a labyrinth of alleys full of traditional Kashmiri wood-and-brick houses, with their distinctive pitched rooves, balconies and overhanging eaves. Many are in much need of repair.
The rest of Srinagar couldn’t exactly be described as lovely – instead turn your face to the waters of Dal Lake, with its floatinggardens
and houseboats; it’s often hard to see where land ends and the water begins. Most of the houseboats face the town end of the lakeside
Boulevard. The most peaceful stretch of water is the smaller Nagin Lake, separated from Dal Lake by a causeway.
Shopping
Kashmir is famous for its handicrafts and you'll be offered them all over India. Carpets, papier-mch articles, woodcarving, embroidery, knitted items and saffron
Carpets can be bought & design has little influence on price but the material used does. Wool is cheaper than silk, with some carpets a mix of the two. The number of knots per square inch (ranging from 200 to 1600) also determines price.
Sights
Dal Lake
Peaceful Dal Lake is Srinagar’s jewel. Its edges are a maze of channels, floatinggardens
and houseboats, lotus flowers and water lilies. Flotillas of shikaras (gondola-like boats) skiff by dipping their heart-shaped paddles, and carry everything from children on the school run to produce from the market.
At dawn, shikaras paddle into one of the backwaters of the lake to create a floating market where a range of vegetables and flowers are bought and sold. It’s a colourful occasion, especially if blessed with a fine sunrise, and worth getting up early for.
Shankaracharya Hill
Overlooking town and lake, this hill (also known as Takht-i-Sulaiman or Throne of Solomon) has a Hindu temple dating from the time of Jehangir. It’s a long slog uphill or a short drive. If you’re at all confused by the layout of Dal Lake and where it fits into Srinagar then the fantastic panoramic views from here will put all into perspective.
Shalimar Bagh & Nishat Bagh
The delightful Shalimar Bagh (admission Rs 5; opens sunrise-7pm, closed Tue) were built for Nur Jahan (literally Light of the World) by her husband Jehangir. Mughalgardens
reach their zenith here, where a series of terraces divided by a central watercourse provide a cool restful retreat from the world.
The nearby Nishat Bagh (admission Rs 5; opens sunrise to 7pm, closed Wed) are larger, with 10 terraces and lined with chinar trees, the emblem of Kashmir.
Hazratbal Mosque
This modern, shiny white mosque is on the northwest shore of Dal Lake. Enshrined here is a hair of the Prophet Mohammed, but for nonbelievers it’s more interesting for its commanding lakeside setting with the mountains rising behind it.
Jama Masjid
Originally built in 1385 by Sultan Sikander, this mosque has suffered three fiery destructions. The mosque, built of brick and wood, is quite austere. It’s notable for the 300-plus pillars supporting the roof; each was the trunk of a single tree.
Pir Dastgir Shrine
About 400 years old, this is one of the more important religious sites in Kashmir, containing relics of the revered Muslim saint Pir Dastgir. It has a beautiful papier-mâché-decorated interior, mostly in green. Inside the shrine, men and women pray to the saint; there is also a small attached mosque.
Shah Hamden Mosque
This is a beautiful piece of architecture in the Old City. Originally built in 1395, it has the habit of burning down every 200 years or so; the last time was in 1731. The current building has a pyramidal roof rising to a spire and is typical of Kashmiri mosques showing the Buddhist and Hindu influences in the region, as well as traditional Islamic designs. Only Muslims are allowed inside. Facing the mosque on the opposite side of the river is the Pather Masjid, a small stone mosque built by Jehangir’s wife Nur Jahan.
Tomb of Zain-ul-Abidin
On the east side of the Jhelum is an imposing brick structure that is supposed to house the tomb of the son of Sultan Sikander, although it’s said that his mother is really buried here, and that he’s in the
courtyard cemetery behind. The building shows clear Persian influence in its domed construction and glazed tiles. Surrounding it are many graves of
ordinary people.
Sultan Arfaen’s Shrine
This important Muslim shrine is on a path up to the fort (it’s also the nearest you’ll get to the fort, which is closed to visitors). Marble, papier-mâché work and delicate woodcarving make this an interesting place to visit. The road to the shrine passes through a city gate and walls built by Akbar as unemployment relief work.
Sri Pratap Singh Museum
This museum (admission Rs 5; opens 10am-4pm Tue-Sun summer, 10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun winter) is laid out in the former summer palace of the maharaja. The building is suitably palatial, with papier-mâché-decorated walls and ceilings setting a note for the displays of archaeological artefacts, mammoth remains, paintings, old coins and notes (one the size of a handkerchief), papier-mâché boxes and martial items.
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