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Rishikesh

Rishikesh calls itself the Yoga Capital of the World with some justification as there are masses of ashrams and all kinds of yoga classes. The town’s setting on the banks of the Ganges, surrounded by forested hills, is conducive to meditation and mind expansion. In the evening, the breeze blows down the valley, setting temple bells ringing as sadhus, pilgrims and tourists prepare for the nightly ganga aarti ceremony.

The town is very New Age: you can learn to play the sitar or tabla on the roof of your hotel; try laughing yoga; practice humming or gong meditation; experience crystal healing and every style of massage; have a go at chanting mantras; and listen to spiritually uplifting CDs as you sip Ayurvedic tea with your vegetarian meal. The International Yoga Festival is held annually in early February.

Lakshman Jhula & around…

The defining image of Rishikesh is the view across the Lakshman pedestrian bridge, built in 1929, to the huge 13-storey temples of Swarg Niwas and Shri Trayanbakshwar. Built by the organisation of the guru Kailashanand, they resemble fairyland castles and have dozens of shrines to Hindu deities on each level.

A pleasant 2km walk south of Lakshman Jhula is the larger community of Swarg Ashram, made up of temples, ashrams, shops and the ghats where religious ceremonies are performed at sunrise and sunset.

For a much longer hike, follow the dedicated pilgrims who take water from the Ganges to offer at Neelkantha Mahadev Temple, a 17km, four-hour walk from Lakshman Jhula. Neekanth (Blue Throat) is another name for Shiva, who once drank poison churned up from the sea by gods and demons which turned his throat blue.

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