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Pondicherry
 With a seafront promenade, wide
boulevards, enduring pockets of French culture and architecture, and a popular ashram, charming Pondicherry is unlike anywhere else in South India. That’s
hardly surprising – the former French colony was settled in the early 18th century as a colonial enclave and it manages to retain a mildly Gallic air superimposed on a typical Indian background.
The French relinquished their control of the Union Territory of ‘Pondy’ some 50 years ago, but reminders of the colonial days remain; the Tricolour flutters over the grand French consulate, there’s a hôtel de ville (town hall), and local police wear red kepis (caps) and belts. Don’t expect a subcontinental Paris though – this is still India, with all the
auto rickshaws, choked streets, bazaars and Hindu temples of any city.
Pondy is split from north to south by a partially covered canal. The more ‘French’ part of town is on the east side
(towards the sea) and the more typically Indian part to the west. With its grid design, navigating the town is easy, but there are still some eccentricities with street names. Many have one name at one end and another at the other end while others use the French ‘rue’ instead of ‘street’.
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Sights & Activities
Sri Aurobindo Ashram
Founded in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo and a Frenchwoman known as The Mother, this ashram ( rue de la Marine & Manakula Vinayagar Koil St) propounds spiritual tenets that represent a synthesis of yoga and modern science. After Aurobindo’s death spiritual authority passed to The Mother, who died in 1973 aged 97. These days, the ashram underwrites many cultural and educational activities in Pondicherry.
(admission free; opens 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat),
Pondicherry Museum
This museum (St Louis Street; admission adult/child Rs 2/1; opens 9.40am-1pm & 2-5.20pm Tue-Sun), housed in an interesting old colonial building, features a well-presented collection, including sculptures from the Pallava and Chola dynasties, fine bronzes, coins and an archaeological display.
Churches & Temples
Pondy has several churches built by French missionaries which contribute greatly to the city’s Mediterranean flair. The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception (Mission St) was completed in 1791. Its medieval architecture is in the style of many of the Jesuit constructions of that time. The Sacred Heart Church (Subbayah Salai) is an impressive sight with its Gothic architecture, stained glass and striking brown and white colours. The mellow pink-and-cream Notre Dame de Anges (Dumas
Street), built in 1858, looks sublime in the late afternoon light. The smooth limestone interior was made using eggshells in the plaster.
Although Pondy is not often associated with temples, the Hindu faith is celebrated here with as much vigour as anywhere – there are said to be more than 150 temples in the Pondicherry area and you’ll often stumble across the entrance to an almost-hidden temple while wandering the central streets, particularly west of the canal. One of the most vibrant in the city is Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple (Manakula Vinayagar Koil St; opens 5.45am-12.30pm & 4-9.30pm), dedicated to Ganesh. Renovations have furnished its sanctum with Rajasthan marble and its vimana (a tower over the sanctum) with a gold roof. This small but bustling temple, tucked away down a backstreet just south of the Sri Aurobindo ashram, also contains more than 40 skilfully painted friezes.
Botanical Gardens
Established by the French in 1826, the botanicalgardens (admission free; opens 6am-6pm) form a green oasis on the southwest side of the city. It makes a pleasant break to meander down the many pathways and enjoy the extensive variety of plants.
Beaches
The long stretch of city ‘beach’ is virtually devoid of sand, but there are a few decent swimming beaches to the north and south of the centre. Quiet, Reppo and Serenity beaches are all north of the centre within 8km of Pondy. Chunnambar, 8km south, has Paradise Beach, some resort accommodation, water sports and backwater boat cruises.
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