Pokhara Imagine a perfect triangular mountain, capped by snow and
buffeted by the icy winds of the Himalaya. Imagine a millpond calm lake,
perfectly reflecting the snowy peaks. Now imagine a village on the lakeshore,
thronged by travellers and reverberating to the sound of ‘om mani padme hum’
from a hundred shops selling prayer flags, carpets, masks, singing bowls and
CDs of Buddhist mantras. That’s Pokhara.Nepal’s second city, at least in tourist terms, Pokhara is the end point for the famous Annapurna Circuit trek and the starting point for a dozen more treks through the mountains of the Annapurna Range, including the perennially popular Jomsom Trek and the equally dramatic (but less busy) trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary. It’s unashamedly touristy, in the Thamel mould, but the setting is spectacular – the perfect pyramid of Mt Machhapuchhare looms high above Pokhara, reflected in the placid waters of Phewa Tal. For many travellers, Pokhara represents a last chance to stock up on creature comforts before hitting the mountain trails. For others, it’s a place to enjoy a steak dinner and cold beer after weeks of daal bhaat in the hills. Even if you aren’t a dedicated trekker, there’s plenty here to keep you busy. Pokhara has numerous museums and there are some fascinating caves, waterfalls and Tibetan villages in the surrounding hills. For the adventurous, Pokhara offers a slew of adventure activities, from trekking and microlight flights to river rafting and jungle safaris. Paragliding from Sarangkot viewpoint has to be one of the most thrilling experiences in the subcontinent. Alternatively, bring a good book and spend your days reading in a café overlooking languorous Phewa Tal. Other Useful Information
Around PokharaTrekking in the Annapurna Conservation Area is easily the biggest attraction around Pokhara but you don't have to be a seasoned trekker to appreciate the glory of the peaks. There are several dramatic viewpoints on the rim of the Pokhara Valley that can be reached by taxi, mountain bike or rented motorcycle from Pokhara, and gorgeous Begnas Tal and Rupa Tal offer similar lake and mountain vistas to Phewa Tal, but without the crowds.SARANGKOT The view of the Annapurna Himalaya from Sarangkot is almost a religious experience. From here, you can see a panoramic sweep of Himalayan peaks, from Dhaulagiri (8167m) in the west to the perfect pyramid that is Machhapuchhare (6997m) and the rounded peak of Annapurna II (7937m) in the east. Most people come here at dawn or dusk, when the sun picks out the peaks in brilliant colours. MAHENDRA GUFA & BAT CAVE The limestone bedrock of the Pokhara Valley is perforated by caves and underground streams, several of which can easily be visited from Pokhara on foot, by bike or by taxi. A return taxi to the following sites will cost Rs 1200, including waiting time. Alternatively, the caves can be reached on foot or by bicycle from Lakeside. The first large cave to be discovered near Pokhara, Mahendra Gufa is popular with Indian and Nepali tourists, but the main tunnel is lit by electric bulbs and it doesn't have much atmosphere. Several stalactites are revered as Shiva lingams. The cave is about 6km north of Lakeside in the suburb of Batulechaur. BEGNAS TAL & RUPA TAL About 10km southeast of Pokhara, a road leaves the Prithvi Highway for Begnas Tal and Rupa Tal, two gloriously serene lakes that see few foreign visitors, despite their proximity to Pokhara. The hiking trail between the lakes forms the final leg of the popular Annapurna Skyline Trek. SHORT TREKS AROUND POKHARA Without the Himalaya, there would be no Pokhara, at least in tourist terms. You'll need at least a week to reach the snowline on the Jomsom or Annapurna Sanctuary Treks, but there are some fascinating short treks in the lower foothills that afford epic views of the Annapurna Himalaya. HistoryBefore the construction of the Prithvi Highway, getting to Pokhara involved a 10-day pony trek, with numerous deadly river crossings along the way. When the Swiss explorer Toni Hagen visited in 1952, he found ambling buffalo carts and streets lined with brick Newari houses. Hints of this time can still be seen in old Pokhara, just north of the Mahendra Pul bazaar.Aside from the odd explorer, the first Westerners to reach Pokhara were hippies in the 1970s. With its lakeshore setting, laid-back pace and plentiful supply of marijuana, Pokhara made a perfect endpoint for the south Asian overland trail. From these barefoot beginnings, it developed rapidly. By the 1980s, it had transformed into a modern mountain resort, with hundreds of hotels, shops, bars and restaurants. OrientationFamed as the city by the lake, Pokhara sprawls along the eastern shore of gorgeous Phewa Tal (Fewa Tal). Most travellers stay on the lake shore in Lakeside, a seemingly endless string of budget hotels, restaurants, bars, Internet cafs and souvenir shops, extending right around the lake from Basundhara Park to the northern shore.Inland from Lakeside, you'll find the airport and the bus stand for tourist buses to Kathmandu (also known as the Mustang bus stand). The main public bus stand is at the north end of the Pokhara airstrip, while local buses to Baglung (for treks to the Annapurna Range) leave from the highway north of town. The main shopping area for locals is Mahendra Pul, running north from the public bus stand. Just north of here is Pokhara's old town, bound by the Baglung Highway and the Seti River gorge. Pokhara sits about 400m lower than Kathmandu so the autumn and winter temperatures are generally much more comfortable. Even in the height of winter you can get away with a T-shirt during the day time and you'll only need a sweater or jacket for evenings and early morning starts. From June to September the skies open and the views vanish behind blankets of grey cloud; bring a brolly and be prepared to wade when the streets are flooded. Festivals & Events Every August, Pokhara's Newari community celebrates Bagh Jatra, which recalls the slaying of a deadly marauding tiger. Gurungs celebrate Tamu Dhee (Trahonte) at around the same time, beating drums to drive away evil spirits. August is also time for Gai Jatra, when cows are decorated with paint and garlands, and villagers perform dances to bring peace to the souls of the departed. See p000 for more. Tibetan Buddhists hold celebrations and masked dances at gompas (monasteries) around Pokhara to celebrate Losar (Tibetan New Year) in January/February and Buddha Jayanti (Buddha's birthday) in April/May. Every April in Basundhara Park, the popular Annapurna Festival features dance, music and stalls serving regional foods. SightsPhewa TalSpreading majestically westwards from Pokhara, Phewa Tal is the second-largest lake in Nepal. On calm days, the mountains of the Annapurna Range are perfectly reflected in the mirrored surface of the tal. Away from the shore, the water is clean and deep and the dense forest along the south side of the lake provides shelter for brilliant white egrets. The best way to appreciate Phewa Tal is by rowboat. Many people walk or cycle around the lakeshore - the trek up to the World Peace Pagoda affords breathtaking views over the tal and the mountains beyond. Mountains Most people come to Nepal for the Himalaya and Pokhara is one of the best places to get an up close view of the peaks. From west to east, the peaks are Hiunchuli (6441m), Annapurna I (8091m), Machhapuchhare (6997m), Annapurna III (7555m), Annapurna IV (7525m) and Annapurna II (7937m). The dramatic Annapurna Massif looms over the city and the lake. There are few places in town where you can't see one or other of the snow-capped peaks jutting up into the clear blue sky. The skyline is dominated by Mt Machhapuchhare ('Fish Tail' in Nepali) - at 6997m, it's actually one of the smaller peaks of the Annapurna Range, but it looks taller as it's closer to Pokhara. If you walk for a few days along the Jomsom Trek you'll see the second summit that gives the mountain its name, hidden away behind the main peak. If you get the chance, visit Sarangkot to see all the Annapurnas lined up against the horizon. Another good place to see the mountain vista is the World Peace Pagoda - you'll see all the peaks twice, reflected in the surface of the lake. Old Pokhara For a taste of what Pokhara was like before the rafting agencies and German bakeries set up shop, head to the old town, north of Mahendra Pul. The best way to explore is on foot or by bike. Varahi Mandir Pokhara's most famous Hindu temple, the two-tiered pagoda-style Varahi Mandir stands on a small island near the Ratna Mandir (Royal Palace). Founded in the 18th century, the temple is dedicated to Vishnu in his boar incarnation, but it's been extensively renovated over the years. Rowboats to the temple leave from near the city bus stand in Lakeside. Karma Dubgyu Chokhorling Monastery Overlooking Pokhara on the east side of the Seti River, this huge gompa is worth visiting just for the views. The main prayer hall has a gilded statue of Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha) and there are more Buddhist statues in the monastery gardens. To get here, take the road leading east across the river from Mahendra Pul. Seti River Gorge The roaring Seti River passes right through Pokhara, but you won't see it unless you go looking. The river has carved a deep, narrow gorge through the middle of town, turning the water milky white in the process. At points, the gorge is less than a metre across and the river gushes by more than 50m below street level. Devi's Falls Also known as Patale Chhango, this waterfall (hrs 6am-6pm) marks the point where the Pardi Khola stream vanishes underground. When the stream is at full bore, the sound of the water plunging over the falls is deafening, but the concrete walkways don't add much to the atmosphere. Tibetan Settlements Most of the Tibetan refugees who hawk souvenirs in Lakeside live in the Tibetan refugee settlements north and south of Pokhara. Both settlements make interesting detours from Pokhara by bike, bus or on foot. |
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