Khajuraho The stunningly exquisite temples of Khajuraho are deservedly one of India’s major attractions. These works of architectural and sculptural genius have a historic and poetic resonance that immediately captures the imagination. You won’t find finer temple arts anywhere in the world.Khajuraho’s temples were built by a Chandela dynasty that survived for five centuries before falling to the Mughal onslaught. Most date from a century-long burst of creative genius from AD 950 to 1050. Almost as intriguing as the sheer beauty and size of the temples is the question of why they were built here. Khajuraho is a long way from anywhere, as it was a thousand years ago. Whatever the reasons, Khajuraho’s isolation helped preserve it from the desecration Muslim invaders inflicted on ‘idolatrous’ temples elsewhere. Under threat from Afghan invaders from the north, the Chandelas forsook Khajuraho and took refuge in their forts. People no longer prayed at the temples, which fell into ruin and the jungle took over. The wider world remained ignorant until British officer, TS Burt, was guided to the ruins by his palanquin bearers in 1838. There this stalwart Victorian soldier was surprised at the architectural treasure house but shocked by what he saw, first describing the erotica as ‘a little warmer than was any absolute necessity for’. Other Useful Information
Around KhajurahoRaneh FallsFor a half-day trip Raneh Falls (admission Indian/foreigner Rs 5/10, compulsory guide Rs 25, camera/video Rs 25/200) , is worth a spell away from the temples. While the falls are only 30m high they are wide and tumble as a churning mass over black and red rocks. Between 1 October and 30 June it’s also possible to visit the nearby (1km) Ken Gharial Sanctuary to view gharial or mugger river crocodiles. Panna National Park The road to Satna passes by the Madla gate of this 543 sq km tiger reserve ( admission Indian/foreigner Rs 15/150, camera/video Rs 50/300, compulsory guide Rs 75, jeep entry/hire Rs 50/800, elephant ride Indian/foreigner Rs 60/300; h6.30-10.30am & 2.30-4pm 1 Oct-15 Feb, 6-10am & 3-5pm 16 Feb-30 Jun) along the Ken River, 32km from Khajuraho. It has a variety of wildlife, including tigers, leopards, nilgais (antelope), chittals (spotted deer), langur monkeys and sambars. Sights Chandela Group of TemplesThe temples are superb examples of Indo-Aryan architecture, but it’s their liberally embellished carvings that have made Khajuraho famous. Two elements appear repeatedly – women and sex: stone figures of sensuous, posturing apsaras (heavenly nymphs) have been carved with a half-twist and slight sideways lean that make the playful figures dance and swirl out from the flat stone. Posing in between are the mithuna (carved erotic figures), running through a whole Kama sutra of positions and possibilities. Western Group The main temples are in the fenced-in parkland of the western group (admission Indian/foreigner Rs 20/250; opens sunrise-sunset). The temples are described here in a clockwise direction. The large Lakshmana Temple is dedicated to Vishnu, The Shiva temple of Kandariya-Mahadev, built between 1025 and 1050, is the first of a set of temples on a common platform. It represents Chandela art and architecture at its most sublime. Mahadeva is a small, mainly ruined temple standing on the same base as the Kandariya-Mahadev and Devi Jagadamba. The fourth temple Chitragupta, at the back of the enclosure, doesn’t share the others’ common platform. Comparable in design to Devi Jagadamba, this temple is probably slightly newer Eastern Group The eastern group of temples consists of three interesting Jain temples in a walled enclosure and four other temples scattered through the old village of Khajuraho. Parsvanath, the largest of the Jain temples in the walled enclosure is also one of the finest. While not competing in size and erotica with the western-enclosure temples, The adjacent smaller Adinath has been partially restored over centuries. Built about a century ago, Shanti Nath is relatively modern but contains many components from older temples. Southern Group A dirt track runs to Duladeo, an isolated temple, about 1km south of the Jain enclosure. This is the youngest temple. Experts suggest that by this time the skill of Khajuraho’s temple builders had peaked resulting in more ‘wooden’ and ‘stereotyped’ work. Nevertheless, it’s a fine and graceful temple with courtly women and a number of mithuna couples. Museums The small Archaeological Museum (Main Road; admission Rs 5; opens10am-7pm Sat-Thu) has a collection of impressive statues and sculptures rescued from and around Khajuraho. The swaying Ganesh is breathtakingly realised and is the closest you’ll ever get to see a pot-bellied elephant doing the hippy hippy shake. Adivart Tribal and Folk Art Museum (Chandela Cultural Complex, Link Road No 1; admission Indian/foreigner Rs 10/50; opens 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) has very competently displayed selections of folk art presented in two well-lit galleries. Woodwork figures, paintings and silverwork show the highly developed Madhya Pradesh traditional artforms laced with colour, vibrancy and form. |
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