Jaipur
 Rajasthan’s
capital, the 'pink city' twinkles and clatters under the sunlight, bombarding the senses at every turn. Hilltop forts and glorious palaces indicate its royal past. Candyfloss-bright turbans blaze a trail through the streets and fluttering saris catch the eye like butterflies.
The city has much to offer, fantastic sights, unparalleled shopping and tumultuous charm.
The city owes its name, foundation and planning to the great warrior-astronomer Maharaja Jai Singh II (1693–1743). Jai Singh’s predecessors had enjoyed good relations with the Mughals and he was careful to preserve this alliance.
In 1876 Maharaja Ram Singh had the entire old city painted pink, a colour associated with hospitality, to welcome the Prince of Wales (later King
Edward VII), and the tradition has been maintained.
Other Useful Information
- Around Jaipur
- Orientation
- Shopping
- Sights
Around Jaipur
Amber
The magnificent delicate-pink, fort-palace of Amber (pronounced Amer), a beautiful, ethereal example of Rajput architecture, rises from a rocky mountainside about 11km north of Jaipur. Amber was the ancient capital of Jaipur state. Construction of the fort (admission Indian/foreigner Rs 10/50, camera/video Rs 75/150; opens 9am-4.30pm) was begun in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, the Rajput commander of Akbar’s army. It was later extended by the
Maharaja Jai Singhs before the move to Jaipur.
You can climb up to the fort from the road in about 10 minutes (cold drinks are available at the top). A seat in a jeep up to the fort costs Rs 120 return. Riding up on elephants is popular
Jaigarh
A scrubby green hill tumbles down above Amber, topped by imposing Jaigarh (admission Indian/foreigner Rs 15/20, admission free with City Palace ticket, camera/video Rs 20/100, car Rs 50; opens 9am-5pm), built in 1726 by Jai Singh. The stern fort, punctuated by whimsical-hatted lookout towers, was never captured and has survived intact through the centuries.
Galta
The temple of the sun god – also known as the Monkey Temple (monkeys converge here at dusk) – at Galta is 2.5km above Jaipur to the east, a 100m climb from just beyond Surajpol Ramgarh
This green oasis, about 35km northeast of Jaipur, has a picturesque lake, polo ground (in Jaipur for fixtures
Orientation
The walled old city is in the northeast of Jaipur; the new parts spread to the south and west. The main tourist attractions are in the bazaar-lined old city.
There are three main interconnecting roads in the new part of town: Mirza Ismail (MI)
Road, Station Road and Sansar Chandra Marg. Many tourist facilities are along or just off these roads.
Shopping
Jaipur is shopping heaven, with an amazing range of crafts.
Most of the larger shops can pack and send your parcels home for you – although it’ll be cheaper if you do it yourself
Jaipur is famous for precious and semiprecious stones. There are many shops offering bargain prices, but you do need to know your gems. The main gem-dealing area is around the Muslim area of Pahar Ganj. Here you can see stones being cut and polished in workshops tucked off narrow backstreets. Johari and Siredeori Bazaars are where many jewellery shops are concentrated, selling gold, silver and fine, highly glazed enamel work known as meenakari, a Jaipur speciality.
Factories and showrooms are strung along the length of Amber Road between Zorawar Gate and the Holiday Inn to catch the tourist traffic. Here you’ll find block prints, blue pottery, carpets and antiques, but the emporia are used to busloads swinging in to blow their cash, so you’ll need to wear your bargaining hat.
Sights
Old City (Pink City)
The old city is partially encircled by a crenellated wall – major gates (recently restored) are Chandpol, Ajmer and Sanganeri. The city is notable for its town planning: avenues divide the Pink City into neat rectangles, each of which specialises in certain crafts. At dusk the sunset-shaded buildings have a magical glow.
The main bazaars in the old city include Johari Bazaar, Tripolia Bazaar, Bapu Bazaar and Chandpol Bazaar.
Hawa Mahal
The extraordinary, fairy-tale, pink-sandstone, delicately honeycombed hive of Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) is Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark. The five-storey building was constructed in 1799, and is an amazing example of Rajput artistry, built to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city.
City Palace
This palace (admission Indian/foreigner adult Rs 35/180, child 5-12 yrs Rs 20/100, camera Indian Rs 50, video Indian/foreigner Rs 100/200; opens 9.30am-5pm) occupies a large area – a complex of
courtyards,gardens and buildings. The outer wall was built by Jai Singh, but other additions are much more recent, some dating from the early 20th century. Today the palace is a blend of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture. The current Maharaja is a great polo chum of Britain’s Prince Charles. Beyond the main
courtyards is the seven-storeyed Chandra Mahal, the Maharaja’s residence and therefore closed to visitors.
J antar Mantar
Near the City Palace is Jantar Mantar (admission Rs 10, free Mon, Indian/foreigner camera Rs 20/50, video Rs 50/100; opens 9am-4.30pm), an observatory begun by Jai Singh in 1728, which at first glance looks like a collection of mammoth, bizarre sculptures. If sensing you’ve stepped into Alice Through the Looking Glass is not enough, the Rs 150 (30 minutes to one hour) guide fee is worthwhile. Guides provide fascinating explanations of how each of the instruments work, and how through watching,
recording and meticulous calculation, Jai Singh measured time by the sun’s shadow falling on the huge sundials, and charted its annual progress through the Zodiac.
Central Museum
This dusty but impressive collection (admission Indian/foreigner Rs 5/30, admission free Mon; opens 10am-4.30pm Sat-Thu) is housed in the spectacularly florid Albert Hall, south of the old city, and displays a fine, if dustily exhibited, array of tribal ware, decorative arts, costumes, drawings and musical instruments. Photography is prohibited.
Nahargarh
Built in 1734 and extended in 1868, sturdy Nahargarh (admission Indian/foreigner Rs 15/20, camera/video Rs 20/70; opens10am-5pm) overlooks the city from a sheer ridge to the north. An 8km road runs up through the hills from Jaipur, or the fort can be reached along a zigzagging 2km footpath. There are some interesting furnished rooms and glorious views – it’s a great sunset spot.
Royal Gaitor
The royal cenotaphs (admission free, Indian/foreigner camera Rs 5/10, video Rs 10/20; opens 9am-4.30pm), just outside the city walls, are an appropriately restful place to visit and feel remarkably undiscovered. Surrounded by a straggling village, the monuments bear much beautiful, intricate carving. The marble cenotaph of Maharaja Jai Singh II is particularly impressive. The cenotaphs of the maharanis of Jaipur (Amber
Road) are midway between Jaipur and Amber. Nearby is the Jal Mahal (Water Palace), in the middle of a sparkling but stinking lake and reached by a causeway. The palace is pitched to join the ranks of Rajasthan’s palatial hotels, but at present belongs to the military.
Other Attractions
Farther south is the small fort of Moti Dungri (J Nehru Marg; closed to public). At the foot of this fort is the large modern Birla Lakshmi Narayan Temple, with splendid marble carving. Free guides explain aspects of the temple and Hinduism. there’s a small museum (admission free; opens 8am-noon & 4-8pm) next to the temple that houses everyday objects from the Birla family.
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