Goa
 It’s easy to see why Goa is so appealing to travellers. The sun-kissed, palm-fringed beaches of the former Portuguese enclave are justly famous, as is Goa’s renowned party scene. But apart from this, Goa has a character quite distinct from the rest of India. Roman Catholicism remains a major
religion and Goans display an easy-going tropical indulgence, humour and civility. Whitewashed churches, paddy fields, coconut-palm groves and crumbling forts
guarding rocky capes make up the Goan landscape. Markets are lively, colourful affairs and there are feasts and festivities throughout the year.
The Portuguese influence lingers on, notably in the state’s unique architectural heritage. In recent years, Goans have taken to restoring decaying mansions.
In the 3rd century BC Goa was part of the Mauryan empire. Later it was ruled by the Satavahanas of Kolhapur and eventually passed to the Chalukyas of Badami from AD 580 to 750.
Blessed as it is by natural harbours and wide rivers, Goa was the ideal base for the seafaring Portuguese, who arrived in 1510 aiming to control the spice route from the East; Jesuit missionaries led by St Francis Xavier arrived in 1542. For a while, Portuguese control was limited to a small area around Old Goa, but by the middle of the 16th century it had expanded to include the provinces of
Bardez and Salcete.
Other Useful Information
- Around Goa
- Entertainment
- Sights
Around Goa
Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary
Up in the lush foothills of the Western Ghats, 52km from Panaji, lies Bondla (admission Rs 5, camera/video Rs 25/100; opens 9am-5pm Fri-Wed), the smallest of the Goan wildlife sanctuaries (8 sq km) and the easiest to reach.
For the benefit of tourists expecting to see some animals, there’s a botanicalgarden, a fenced deer park (Rs 10) and a depressing zoo. Fauna in the wild here includes gaur and sambar, but unless you’re prepared to spend a few days and put in the time on an observation platform, you’re unlikely to see much.
Molem & Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary
The forlorn village of Molem is the gateway to the much more rewarding Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary. The largest of Goa’s protected wildlife areas covers 240 sq km, incorporating the 107-sq-km Molem National Park; there’s an observation platform a few kilometres into the park from where you may be fortunate enough to view animals such as jungle cats, deer and Malayan giant squirrels.
The sanctuary is 53km east of Panaji, or 54km from Margao, with its main entrance on the NH4A.
DUDHSAGAR FALLS
On the eastern border with Karnataka, Dudhsagar Falls (603m) are Goa’s most impressive waterfalls – and the second highest in India, after Jog Falls.
Entertainment
Goa has long been renowned among Western visitors as a party place where all-night, open-air
beach parties dominated the scene in places such as Anjuna and Vagator.
Rave parties are organised at open-air locations such as Disco Valley at Vagator and Bamboo Forest in Anjuna, and occasionally at Arambol, but they are not advertised so you’ll have to ask around to find out what’s on and be prepared to ride around aimlessly on a motorcycle looking for the right place. More permanent nightclubs have also become established in the Candolim-Calangute-Baga area over the years.
Kala Academy : The recently renovated Kala Academy, on the west side of the city at Campal, is Goa’s premier cultural centre. There’s a cultural programme of dance, theatre, music and art exhibitions throughout the year. Many performances are in Konkani, but there are occasional English-language productions.
Casinos: Goa is the only place in India where you can find casinos,
although in a limited mnner. The best options are on Small Luxury ships
which have been converted into Casino Boats. Games here include
blacvkjack, rouletter, poker as wel as slots. There is a strict dress code
in place here and shorts, singlets and flip flops are a definite no-no!
Sights
Panaji City
Panaji is a cityto savour on leisurely strolls, the best being in the atmospheric Sao Tomé, Fontainhas and Altino areas. The warren of narrow streets, lined with tiled and painted buildings, shuttered windows and tiny overhanging balconies, is a pleasure to wander through. Alternatively, take a walk beside the Mandovi
River.
Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception
Panaji’s main church, standing above the square in the town centre, was originally consecrated in 1541. Panaji was the first port of call for voyages from Lisbon, so Portuguese sailors would visit this strikingly whitewashed church to give thanks for a safe crossing before continuing to Old Goa. Mass is held here daily in English, Konkani and Portuguese.
Convent & Church of St Francis of Assisi
One of the most interesting buildings in Old Goa, the church interior contains gilded and carved woodwork, a stunning reredos (ornamented screen behind the altar), old murals depicting scenes from the life of St Francis and a floor made of carved gravestones – complete with family coats of arms dating back to the early 16th century. The church was built by eight Franciscan friars who arrived here in 1517 and constructed a small chapel consisting of three altars and a choir. This was later pulled down and the present building was constructed on the same spot in 1661.
A convent behind this church is now the archaeological museum (admission Rs 5; h10am-5pm Sat-Thu). It houses portraits of the Portuguese viceroys, sculpture fragments from Hindu temple sites, and stone Vetal images from the animist cult that flourished in this part of India centuries ago.
Basilica of Bom Jesus
The Basilica of Bom Jesus is famous throughout the Roman Catholic world. It contains the tomb and mortal remains of St Francis Xavier who, in 1541, was given the task of spreading Christianity among the subjects of the Portuguese colonies in the East.
A former pupil of St Ignatius Loyola, the founder of the Jesuit order, St Francis Xavier embarked on missionary voyages that became legendary and, considering the state of transport at the time, were nothing short of miraculous.
Apart from the richly gilded altars, the interior of the church is remarkable for its simplicity. This is the only church that is not plastered on the outside (although it was originally). Construction began in 1594 and was completed in 1605. The focus of the church is the three-tiered marble tomb of St Francis, which took 10 years to build and was completed in 1698. The remains of the body are housed in a silver casket, which at one time was covered in jewels.
The Professed House, next door to the basilica, is a two-storey laterite building covered with lime plaster. It was completed in 1585, despite much opposition to the Jesuits from the local Portuguese. There is a modern art gallery attached to the basilica; even if the art isn’t to your taste it’s worth popping your head in to look through a small window down on the tomb of St Francis Xavier.
Church of St Augustine (ruins)
The church was constructed in 1602 by Augustinian friars and abandoned in 1835 due to the repressive policies of the Portuguese government, which resulted in the eviction of many religious
orders from Goa. It fell into neglect and the vault collapsed in 1842. In 1931, the façade and half the tower also fell down. All that is really left is the enormous 46m tower that served as a belfry and formed part of the façade.
Goa State Museum
An eclectic collection of items awaits visitors to this large, roomy museum (admission free; opens 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri), in a rather forlorn area southwest of the Kadamba bus stand. As well as Christian art, Hindu and Jain sculpture and bronzes, and paintings from all over India, exhibits include an elaborately carved table used in the Goa Inquisition, and an antique pair of huge rotary lottery machines.
Secretariat Building
Dating from the 16th century, this handsome colonial building on one of Panjim’s most traffic-prone streets was originally the palace of the Muslim ruler Adil Shah before becoming the viceroy’s official residence in 1759. Now it’s government offices. Immediately to the west, the bizarre statue of a man apparently about to strangle a woman is of Abbé Faria, a famous Goan hypnotist, and his assistant.
Institute Menezes Braganza
On the west side of the Azad Maidan, the institute houses Panaji Central Library (Malaca
Road; opens 9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) and is worth popping into to see the pretty azulejos (blue-and-white-painted tile murals) in the entrance hall.
Public Observatory
You can study the stars at the observatory (Swami Vivekanand Road; opens 7-9pm Nov-May) on the rooftop of the Junta House.
Miramar
The closest beach to Panaji is at Miramar, 3km southwest of the city along Dayanand Bandodkar Marg. It’s far from the cream of Goa’s beaches but is a pleasant enough place for a sunset stroll and a good place to aim for on a short bike ride out the city.
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