Darjeeling
 Draped over a steep ridge and backed by a panoramic Himalayan horizon,
which is includes four of the world’s five highest peaks, is the quintessential hill station of Darjeeling. Its undulating hills are covered in tea plantations and often dotted with colourfully dressed workers, looking much like Smarties spilled on a fresh-cut lawn. The striking faces of the large Nepali and Tibetan populations mixed with Victorian colonial mansions give this Indian town an exotic feel.
This area belonged to the Buddhist chogyals (kings) of Sikkim until 1780, when it was annexed by the invading Gurkhas from Nepal. The Gurkhas aggressive nature led to growing conflicts with the British and, after several battles, the East India Company gained control of the region in 1816. The company then ceded most of the lands back to Sikkim in exchange for British control over any future
border disputes.
Other Useful Information
- Orientation
- Shopping
- Sights
Orientation
Most of Darjeeling sprawls along a west-facing slope in a complicated series of interconnecting roads and steep flights of steps. Near the top of town is the large open square known as Chowrasta, the focal point of Victorian Darjeeling. The zoo lies further northwest, reached from Chowrasta on foot via HD Lama
Road. Hill Cart Road, which runs the length of town, is Darjeeling’s major vehicle thoroughfare. From the sprawling Chowk Bazaar it leads north
towards the zoo and Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, and heads south past the train station en route to
Ghoom.
Shopping
Darjeeling Tea
This is some of the finest tea in the world and is a very popular and portable souvenir.
Cheaper loose tea is also available in Chowk Bazaar, but the packaging provided isn’t particularly
sturdy. Avoid the tea in fancy boxes, because it’s usually blended and packaged in Kolkata.
Tibetan Carpets
The Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre (Lebong Cart Road; opens sunrise-sunset Mon-Sat) makes gorgeous carpets to
order and will ship the finished carpet to your home address
Other Souvenirs
There are numerous souvenir shops at Chowrasta and along Gandhi and Nehru Roads, selling Nepali woodcarvings (including masks), thangkas (Tibetan cloth paintings), religious objects and
jewellery.
Sights
 Mountain Views
As with other hill stations, Himalayan views are a big attraction in Darjeeling. The skyline is dominated by Khangchendzonga, India’s highest peak and the world’s
third-highest mountain. The name ‘Khangchendzonga’ is derived from the Tibetan
words for ‘big five-peaked snow fortress’.
Tiger Hill
To set your eyes on a spectacular 250km stretch of Himalayan horizon, including Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8501m), Makalu (8475m), Khangchendzonga, Kabru (6691m) and Janu (7710m), rise early and get to Tiger Hill 11km south of Darjeeling, above Ghoom.
The sunrise over the Himalaya from here is truly spectacular and has become a major tourist attraction, with massive convoys of jeeps leaving Darjeeling for Tiger Hill every morning during high season around 4.30am.
Toy Train
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (known affectionately as the Toy Train) made its first voyage along its precipice-topping, 2ft-wide tracks in September 1881 and is one of the few hill railways still operating in India – it’s even listed as a World Heritage site. Besides its regular seven-hour services to Siliguri via Kurseong there are enjoyable joy rides during high season that leave Darjeeling at 10am and 12.50pm for a two-hour steam-powered return trip to Ghoom. It’s wise to book at least a day ahead at the computerised booking counter at the train station.
Tea Plantations
Happy Valley Tea Estate (Pamphawati Gurungni Road; opens 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) rests on the undulating slopes north of town, below Hill Cart
Road, and is worth a jaunt and a wee sniff when the plucking and processing is in progress (April to November). An employee will whisk you through the aromatic factory and its various processes before politely demanding a tip – Rs 20 from each visitor is appropriate. The Happy Valley turn-off is 500m beyond the Office of the District Magistrate. Walking from the Chowk Bazaar jeep/bus station along Lochnager
Road is a pleasant option.
Observatory Hill
Sacred to both Buddhists and Hindus, this hill was the site of the Dorje Ling monastery, the gompa that gave the city its name. Today, devotees of both religions come to a temple in a small cave, below the crest of the hill, to honour Mahakala, a Buddhist deity and an angry form of the Hindu god Shiva.
Gompas & Pagodas
Together, Darjeeling and Ghoom are home to a number of fascinating Buddhist monasteries. Probably the most scenic is Bhutia Busty Gompa with Kanchenjunga providing a spectacular backdrop. The shrine originally stood on Observatory Hill, but was rebuilt in its present location by the chogyals of Sikkim in the 19th century.
Yiga Choling Gompa (camera per photo Rs 10), the region’s most famous monastery, exudes a feeling of warmth that is not lost on most who visit here. First built in 1850, it enshrines a 5m-high statue of the Maitreya Buddha (Future Buddha) along with 300 of the most beautifully bound Tibetan texts
Sakya Choling Gompa and the Samten Choling Gompa with the protector Garuda atop its ornate Buddha backdrop. These gompas are both on Hill Cart
Road .
About halfway between Ghoom and Darjeeling is the vast Druk Sangak Choling Gompa inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 1993. Known for its vibrant frescoes, it houses 300 colourful Himalayan monks who study philosophy, Buddhist literature, astronomy, meditation, sacred dance and music.
Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park
This zoo (admission incl Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Indian/foreigner Rs 10/100; opens 8.30am-4pm Fri-Wed) was established in 1958 to study, conserve and preserve Himalayan fauna. This is one of India’s better zoos and the animals are cared for by dedicated keepers.
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI)
Tucked away within the grounds of the zoological park (above), this prestigious mountaineering institute (admission incl zoo Indian/foreigner Rs 10/100; opens 8.30am-4pm Fri-Wed) was founded in 1954 and has provided training for some of India’s leading mountaineers. Within the complex is the fascinating Everest Museum, which traces the history of attempts on the world’s highest peak. While reading biographies and seeing the actual flags that were first raised on Everest’s summit is nice, it’s articles such as the climbing boots designed for the toeless (thanks to the 1952 Swiss expedition) Raymond Lambert that give you a true insight into the minds of those who attempted to conquer the Everest. Next door is the Mountaineering Museum, with a relief model of the Himalaya, dusty specimens of Himalayan fauna and more historic mountaineering equipment.
On a nearby hilltop, where Tenzing Norgay was cremated, stands the Tenzing Samadhi statue. The intrepid mountaineer lived in Darjeeling for most of his life and was the director of the institute for many years.
Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre
Established in 1959, this refugee centre (Lebong Cart Road; opens sunrise-sunset Mon-Sat) comprises a home for the aged, school, orphanage, clinic, gompa and craft workshops that produce carpets, woodcarvings, leatherwork and woollen items. The refugees are welcoming so wander through the workshops – the spinning wheels are a testament to their improvisational genius. The handicrafts are for sale in the showroom and proceeds go straight back into the Tibetan community.
Lloyd Botanical Gardens
These pleasant gardens (admission free; opens 6am-5pm) contain an impressive collection of Himalayan plants, including orchids. It’s a lovely interval from the bustle of central Darjeeling. Look for the flowering
bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) in the glass conservatory (opens 8am-4pm). Follow the signs along Lochnager
Road from the Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station.
Other Attractions
The most conspicuous Hindu temple in Darjeeling, Dhirdham Mandir is a replica of the famous Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu. It’s easy to find – just below the Darjeeling train station. There’s a great view over Darjeeling from its grounds.
Be an aristocrat for the day and join the Planters’ Club Darjeeling– lounge in style or rack them up in the
billiards room.
|
