Coorg
 The mountainous Kodagu (or Coorg) region is home to the Kodava people and refugee Tibetans. The
geography and cool climate make it a fantastic area for trekking,
bird-watching and generally refreshing the soul. Winding roads ramble over forested hills and past spice and coffee plantations, which burst into fragrant white blossoms in March and April.
Other Useful Information
Around Coorg
Dubare Forest Reserve
Head to Kushalnagar, Kodagu’s second-largest town, and you’ll pass the Dubare Forest Reserve. Here, on the banks of the Cauvery River, you can watch the elephants being washed and fed daily at 9.30am. To take part in the full programme (Indian/foreigner Rs 100/250), including an elephant ride, you need to be there by 8.30am.
Bylakuppe
In the exodus from Tibet that followed the 1959 Chinese invasion, thousands of Tibetan refugees settled around Bylakuppe, 5km southeast of Kushalnagar, where the Karnataka government gifted them 1200 hectares of land. The area has since sprouted several villages centred around monasteries where maroon-and-yellow-robed monks are a common sight and Tibetan arts and crafts are practised. The atmosphere in the villages is heart-warmingly welcoming.
The area’s highlight is the Namdroling Monastery home to the jaw-droppingly spectacular Golden Temple (Padmasambhava Buddhist Vihara; opens 7am-8pm), presided over by an 18m-high gold-plated Buddha. The temple is in particularly good form when school is in session and it rings out with the gongs, drums and chanting of hundreds of young novices. You’re welcome to sit and meditate on it all; look for the small blue guest cushions lying around. The Zangdogpalri Temple (h7am-8pm), a similarly ornate affair, is next door.
Kakkabe
The region around the village of Kakkabe is an ideal base if you’re planning an assault on Kodagu’s highest peak, Tadiyendamol. The small and picturesque
Nalakunad Palace (admission free; opens 9am-5pm), 3km from Kakkabe, is the recently restored hunting lodge of a Kodagu king and dates from 1794. Within walking distance of here you’ll find several excellent places to stay.
Sights
Madikeri’s fort, now the municipal headquarters, was built in 1812 by Raja Lingarajendra II. Cows graze around the old church here, home to a quirky museum (admission free; opens 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) displaying dusty, poorly labelled statues and the like.
East of the fort is the Indo-Saracenic-style Omkareshwara Temple (opens 6.30am-noon & 5-8pm), built by the raja in 1820, which is surrounded by a small lake. Reach it via the steps descending past the police station.
The panoramic view from Raja’s Seat (admission free; MG Road; opens 5.30am-7.30pm) is breathtaking. Behind aregardens, a toy train line for kids and a tiny Kodava-style temple.
On the way to Abbi Falls, a pleasant 7km hike from the town centre, visit the quietly beautiful Raja’s Tombs, better known as
Gaddige.
|
