Ajmer
 Ajmer is a bustling town
nestled by the calm waters if the Ana Sagar and surrounded by spiky, blue-shadowed hills. Though most travellers zoom through Ajmer on the way to Pushkar, it’s one of India’s most important Muslim pilgrimage centres, containing the fascinating shrine of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti.
Historically Ajmer, around 130km southwest of Jaipur, had considerable strategic importance. It was sacked by Mohammed of Ghori on one of his periodic forays from Afghanistan, and later was favoured by the mighty Mughals. One of the first contacts between the Mughals and the British occurred in Ajmer, when Sir Thomas Roe met Jehangir here in 1616. Later the Scindias took the city, and in 1818 it was handed over to the British, becoming one of the few places in Rajasthan that they directly controlled.
The British set up Mayo College here in 1875, a prestigious school in an overexcited building, exclusively for the Indian nobility.
An all boys school, it is now open to all.
Other Useful Information
Around Ajmer
PUSHKAR
Pushkar is a small, magical, desert-edged
town under a mother-of-pearl sky, pale onion domes and 400 milky-coloured temples
that curl around a holy lake, said to have appeared when Brahma dropped a lotus flower. It’s an important Hindu pilgrimage centre, with one of the world’s few Brahma temples.
The result is a muddled match of religious and tourist scenes, but the town remains enchantingly small and
extraordinarily mystic. While here, you can preserve the equilibrium that makes Pushkar so bewitching by dressing appropriately and abiding by local restrictions (no alcohol, meat or eggs, no expressions of affection in public).
Puskhar is 11km from Ajmer but separated from it by Nag Pahar (Snake Mountain).
Pushkar boasts hundreds of temples, though few are particularly ancient as they were mostly desecrated by Aurangzeb and subsequently rebuilt. Most famous is the Brahma Temple, said to be one of the few such temples in the world. Apparently Brahma wanted to perform a yagna (self-mortification) at the lake, and when his wife Savitri didn’t attend, he married another woman on a whim. Savitri, understandably annoyed, vowed that Brahma would not be worshipped anywhere else. It’s marked by a red spire, and over the entrance gateway is the hans (goose symbol) of Brahma.
GHATS
Fifty-two bathing ghats surround the lake, where pilgrims bathe in the sacred waters. Some have particular importance: Vishnu appeared at Varah Ghat in the form of a boar, Brahma bathed at Brahma Ghat, and Gandhi’s ashes were sprinkled at Gandhi Ghat (formerly Gau Ghat). If you wish to join them,
you must do so with respect as this is considered a holy place.
You are required to remove your shoes, cannot smoke or take photographs.
Sights
ANA SAGAR
This large lake, created in the 12th century by damming the River Luni, is set against a blue-grey hilly spine that merges into its surface. On its bank is two delightful parks, Dault Bagh and Subash Bagh, containing a series of marble pavilions erected in 1637 by Shah Jahan. There are good views back
towards Ajmer from the hill beside the Dault Bagh, particularly just before sunset. Pedaloes and motorboats can be hired from the Fun N Joy Boat Club at the edge of the lake.
DARGAH
In the old part of town, this is one of India’s most important Muslim pilgrimage sites. The dargah (hrs 5am-9pm winter, 4am-9pm summer, closed for services 3-4pm & 2.30-3.30pm Thu) is the tomb of a Sufi saint, Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti, who came to Ajmer from Persia in 1192 and lived here until 1233. Construction of the shrine was completed by Humayun and the gate was added by the nizam (ruler of Hyderabad). Akbar used to make the pilgrimage to the dargah from Agra every year.
You must cover your head in certain areas, so do not forget a scarf or cap – you can buy one in the bazaar leading to the shrine.
ADHAI-DIN-KA-JHONPRA & TARAGARH
Beyond the Dargah, on the town outskirts, are the extraordinary ruins of the Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra (Two-and-a-Half Days) mosque. according
to legend, its construction in 1153 took 2½ days. Others say it was named after a festival lasting 2½ days. It was built as a Sanskrit college, but in 1198 Mohammed of Ghori seized Ajmer and converted the building into a mosque by adding a seven-arched wall in front of the pillared hall.
Although it needs restoration, it is a fine piece of architecture with soaring domes, pillars and arched screen, largely built from pieces of Jain and Hindu temples.
AKBAR’S PALACE
Akbar built this imposing palace in 1570 – partly as a pleasure retreat, but mainly to keep an eye on pesky local chiefs.
NASIYAN (RED) TEMPLE
The Jain Red Temple (Prithviraj Marg; admission Rs 3; hrs 8.30am-5.30pm, to 5pm winter) is amazing. Its double-storey hall is filled with golden models depicting the Jain concept of the ancient world, with 13 continents and oceans, the golden city of Ajodhya and flying-swan and flying-elephant gondolas.
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